Bridge into a “Brilliant” past in the Medina
Interior courtyard Bahia “Brilliance” palace
Past the reception hall, visitors entered into a long interior Court of Honor with a large marble fountain. This location served as back drop for the opening ceremony of the 6th Marrakesh Biennale in 2016.
Our guide, Bonbou led us through the maze of the Medina in the early morning, to take us on a journey into the past. After a short walk from Riad Karmella, we stepped through the pink gate leading into Bahia Palace. Bonbou, a historian, illustrated life at Bahia palace, even mentioned that the interior court has often been used as back drop in movies. His passion for his hometown made the narrative much more colorful.
In 2016 Bahia Palace was the locale for the opening ceremony of the 6th Marrakesh Biennale. Different rooms were used for art installations, as a venue for video presentations. Art displayed to connect people and locations with themes that are relevant in today’s Morocco.
The bright blue and yellow colors of the restored Bahia Palace in the historic Mellah district of the Medina, offer a glimpse into splendor from a distant past.
In typical Moroccan style, the different living quarters are decorated with Islamic designs in either stucco or carved wood. The wooden coffered ceilings are painted and carved.
Constructed between 1866 and 1867 by Si Moussa, Grand Vizier of the Sultan, was a former slave who climbed the ranks. After his death, the house was occupied by his son Bou Ahmed.
Bou Ahmed was an astute political player who expanded the family’s wealth and the palace to its current size. The Moorish/Islamic architectural style, based on a rectangle with interior courts, follows traditional building style of the times.
Visitors enter the palace through the elaborate reception hall, and are led into a vast Court of Honor with a large marble fountain. Along the walkway of the Court of Honor doors lead to several apartments.
The ceilings are coffered, painted and tile ornamentation around the windows
The most resplendently decorated walls and ceilings are the quarters of the main wife, at the eastern side of the palace.
The palace still has an aura of mystery and power today. It was palpable, when we approached the staterooms, or other important rooms, used for different functions.
The furniture and interior fittings of the palace are lost, but the architecture is still intact. Especially the doors and ceilings are some of the finest examples of traditional Moroccan wood working craftsmanship.
Gold decor at Bahia palace. The simple whitewashed stucco walls lead the eye to the authentic ornate ceilings.
Entrance to the private garden
On one side of the palace, an interior garden offers a delightful change from the grand rooms.
Carved wood detail at the entrance to the private garden Bahia palace
alcove at the garden with carved wood details and tile
Set inside walls with delicate wood or stone carvings, shrubs and high trees offer cooling in the hot afternoon sun. Today countless visitors pass through this garden that once was an intimate space just for the family.
Mature trees abundant with dates, golden Pomegranates, Citrus trees, lush green foliage, red desert blooms, enhance the feeling of a miniature paradise, as an enduring legacy.
Soon, it was time to leave Bahia palace, continue our journey into the Medina’s history. The sun was now high in the sky, as we walked to “Place des Ferblantiers” the Metal working Quarter in the Mellah, to reach El Badii Palace, the destroyed palace.
El Badii was once a lavish palace built in the Moorish style, with a thriving garden, now only high walls and remnants of former fountains are still visible.
A square pavilion still stands as testimony of the past. The destruction is the result of competing and warring ruling families from the past, who rather destroyed a palace to demonstrate their power, than live in peace in the same city.
In close proximity to El Badii, we visited the now restored Saadian Tumbs. Constructed under the reign of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur as burials for his family.
The recent restoration allows us to see the building in its former glory. The extensive tile work on columns, walls and floors are dazzling, they seem to compete with the wood carved work above. This site is a definite Must-See in the Medina.
Time for lunch at Café Kif-Kif on the way to Koutoubia tower to sample local food. The whimsical woven raffia umbrellas invite you in.
The menu is simple, fresh food, Moroccan salads, egg tagines and dips. Seating upstairs on the top patio offers views of the Koutoubia tower. The ambiance is rustic wood furniture. Lean against the red pillows on the benches, relax.
Next stop, Koutoubia Minaret and Garden.
The Koutoubia Minaret and mosque, with its extensive garden and ancient olive trees are visible from far away. Built under the reign of Almohad Caliph Yaqub al-Mansur, the Minaret is one of the Landmarks in the Medina. The four golden orbs on the tower’s spire inspired legends and stories, visually, they are a distinct design element of Marrakesh architectural style.
As we wandered back to Riad Karmella in the late afternoon, memories of Bahia palace still lingered in my mind.
We had the opportunity to step into the apartments and the garden where the families of the Grand Vizir lived. To stand in the same space years apart created a connection, not just through the architecture.
The golden fruit : Pomegranats
The sight of the abundant golden Pomegranates, once considered a symbol of life and rebirth, or the red blooming desert flowers on the ground, was as if through nature, time was bridged.
It felt, as if I could still imagine the family’s presence.
Bahia Palace, once a place of pageantry and wealth, was one of the largest and most ornate buildings of its time. As we walk along its grounds, we can conjure up scenes of the Vizir’s family, dressed in colorful embroidered Qobw capes, or Djellabas, wander through the luxuriously decorated rooms. Life at Bahia palace was stately then, a symbol of power.
We can only find traces of Bahia palace’s “Brilliance” in Marrakesh today.
more information: infostourismemaroc.com,
riadkarmella.com, cafekifkif.com,