This photo of the new Chanel collection, a young woman standing on a balcony that could be in Paris, exudes innocence and restraint allure.

The long sleeve black Tweed top with a knot in the front seems almost casual. The skirt is long, with a slit lined with Chanel signature gold buttons. We clearly see the interconnected CC for Coco Chanel.

Gold Chanel style chains adorn the midriff, to add a playful vibe in typical Chanel style. The woman’s hair is pulled back in a casual way as ballet dancers pull their hair back for practice.

Coco Chanel at her most beautiful in a black dress, her signature pearls, with the insignia cuffs

Yet, the underlying message reminds me of the photo of Coco Chanel, adorned with a black dress and her signature pearls, a military short brim cap style hat, in a casual style. Bejeweled cuffs and bracelets added a message of opulence.

The two images are closely connected. In the underlying message Virginie Viard, the newly appointed Artistic Director of Chanel, tells us, Chanel’s new direction is a renewed awareness of Gabrielle Chanel’s mantra,

“… Simplicity is Elegance…” “ Simplicity of movement creates Grace…”

The starkness of a black top and skirt only interrupted by the addition of gold buttons and chains transforms a Look. Unexpected details add a feel of Luxe and opulence. Just as a bejeweled cuff reminds us of insignia, a certain style hat can remind us of something more formal. A long slit in a demure skirt that shows some skin, or the casually pulled back hair of a young girl, draw the eye in, and transforms the message.

Before Gabrielle Chanel became Coco, she liberated herself and women from the constraints of the long dark skirts and dresses of the early 1900s. She recognized the value of developing a personal style and expression, over the constraints of societal norms and changing fashion.

Now, Virginie Viard has to free us from KL’s vision for Chanel, his melancholy-tinged interpretation that lead the House of Chanel out of the dark days after Coco’s passing.

As we review a new Chanel collection, a new generation of young women discovers Coco’s message today.

The way forward for the new Chanel style is a lesson Coco learned decades ago,

“ … to value understated elegance over ostentation…”

May her message resonate loudly Today.

Best,

Jasmin

(quote from book Universe of Fashion Chanel, by Francois Baudot)