The display at SFA El Paseo caught my eye with unexpected prints and stripes at first then, the playful almost demure shapes of the dresses seem to counterbalance the exuberant colors.
I approached the dresses from different angles. It was more an Art Installation than a fashion vignette. Dazzled by color and stripes, I stopped. Mary Katrantzou created an illusion, shapes and moving color that are not what they seem.
Greek designer Mary Katrantzou, who lives and works in London, brings her design approach from a bright sunny place, one that translates into visual bursts of color, patterns, and scale.
In an interview Mary said: “I definitely begin with a visual image that defines the feel of a collection. She continues, ”… then, I research how that could be translated into print, into a jacquard, leather, lace, embroidery.”
The Resort 2016 collection brings a Retro feeling, graphic prints of the 60s, with stylized prints of flowers or flower patterns, into her designs. Her choice of fabrics, Chiffon, Silk, and Broderie Anglaise, are a return to classic Couture.
Bursts of color, prints and waves are often applied on classic shapes. A Shift or an A-line dress becomes a canvas for colorful appliqués. The white Amblie dress bursting with flowers on white Eyelet Broderie Anglaise, is made for a Summer afternoon. I wear them with the Amazoulo lace-ups by Louboutin in sandy suede. The Rockie tote in Berry Red by Alexander Wang is a fun shopper for Summer.
The next moment, Mary creates illusion and plays with shapes. The Op Art influence for this collection draws on the Unexpected.
Our eye views an image, then it changes. The Fuchsia Mollie dress sensual silk, stripes and roses on a green scroll meander through our view. The pleated Rose Print Tank top is a modern rose. Movement creates a different image, one that flows. Then the Rebel printed Midi dress melts patterns with stripes.
Mary surprises us with Insets of knife pleats, hidden in simple cami shapes that open with movement. The Acer cami with the multi color fan pleats seem to invite movement.
My Edits for You!
The Techno Flower Clueless Shift dress dazzles with color, it hugs my figure with waves of blue. It can become a party dress, or a sun dress by the pool. I create a new reality out of an illusion, stripes and flowers merge.
Other patterns seem to shift, when I move, stripes twist and turn, shapes become unstable, color seems to float. The Yas dress with its rainbow of colors, flows around my body. Knife pleats open up to discover new colors, they invite me to wear it at a beach party. I imagine myself on a beach on Paros, barefoot, dancing…
I feel light, inspired by a Greek Goddess to guide my step. Perception and Reality, images from past memory reach out into the Future, create a new modern Look.
Find yourself in dazzling colors and stripes by Mary Katrantzou from my edits and enjoy the party.